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While you are out traveling the world, THE TICKET's trusty restaurant critic is prowling around Atlanta's top eateries, tasting and testing so you don't have to. Every month, THE TICKET, will introduce you to (or remind you about) some of the top spots for a fine meal in Atlanta. All you need to do is make reservations!

June 2009

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MAY 2009

Kozmo Gastro Pub
11890 Douglas Road
Johns Creek/ Alpharetta, GA 30005
Phone: 678-526-6094
www.kozmogastropub.com

From the outside, it looks like nothing special. In the middle of a strip mall, next to a hair salon and tattoo studio, sits Johns Creek’s sexy little secret: Kozmo Gastro Pub.  From the time I walked through the door, I felt like I was in a Midtown hot spot, without the inconvenience of paid parking.

The cold industrial feel is softened with various textures and shades of green throughout the restaurant.  The concrete bar and butcher block communal tables continued the theme of an industrial, though comfortable mix of materials. The thoughtful design was quite unexpected.

We were seated in the far corner of the room, which was a perfect location for people watching.  Our server, Ashley, was personable and made us feel at home, which made up for time it took for her to notice that we had been seated.

I started off with the Kozmojito cocktail, a cross between a classic cosmopolitan and a mojito, with fresh cranberries, lime, mint and rum. My friend had the Dark and Stormy, which is made with ginger beer and dark rum.  Both drinks were good, but I preferred the fresh, crisp taste of mine over the stronger more boisterous flavor of the Dark and Stormy.

The menu is decidedly less upscale than the interior suggests.  With appetizers ranging from $3.50 to $9.99 and entrées ranging from $8.99 to $14.99, the prices are more than reasonable.

To start off, we ordered the cheese fondue, which is blue cheese, white cheddar, parmesan and mozzarella melted into a white velvet consistency and served with toasted ciabatta bread ($8.99), as well as tempura shrimp, served with spicy mayonnaise ($9.99).  Both were much better than I expected, especially when I dipped my shrimp into the fondue.  Other tempting appetizers we would have tried if we’d had bottomless pits for stomachs include the deviled eggs and the house poutine, which is a modern twist on a classic Canadian dish with fries, braised beef brisket, gravy and mozzarella cheese ($7.99).  

For dinner, I chose the Kozmo Cheese Burger, a handmade ground sirloin and brisket burger, served with caramelized onion, white cheddar, shredded lettuce, tomato and mayonnaise ($8.99).  I choose fruit salad for my side. My friend ordered the beef short rib pappardelle, a bowl of slow roasted braised short ribs, pappardelle pasta, horseradish, cabbage, and short rib jus ($12.99).

The burger was juicy and well seasoned, but fell apart in my hand as I tried to eat it. By the time I approached the second half of it, I was reduced to picking the meat out of a burger pile on my plate.  The fruit salad was seasoned with salt and pepper, which made it sweet and a little spicy. While the short ribs were extremely tender, the jus was not as flavorful as we had hoped. 

Overall, the meal was rock solid and worth every penny.  In the land of restaurant chain mania, Kozmo’s unique perspective helps remind suburbanites that there is life after toll booths. The chic ambiance, fun cocktails and tremendous food value makes Kozmo a welcome addition to the Johns Creek family.

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MARCH 2009

Pizza Fusion
2233 Peachtree Road, Suite M
Atlanta, GA 30309
404-351-9934
www.pizzafusion.com

A large group from our office visited Pizza Fusion on a cold Atlanta night. The restaurant is located in the Aramore on Peachtree and after parking in the garage (for free!) we let the smell of cooking pizza lead the way to the entrance. When you walk in you immediately notice the clean, sleek atmosphere. This is Atlanta’s first LEED Certified restaurant, meaning everything from the light fixtures to the delivery vehicles are energy efficient. Our waiter gave us the spiel when we were first seated.  They use over 75% organic ingredients in the menu, tables are made from recycled wood, toilets are low-flow and customers who return their pizza boxes get a special discount. I love the concept of this place just as much as I love the food!

 We started off with two bottles of organic wine, Santa Julia Organic Cabernet Sauvignon and Casa Silva Reserva Merlot. The Merlot was great and for just $28 a bottle, it’s a steal. I didn’t have a chance to try the Cab, but the empty glasses tell me the other side of the table enjoyed it thoroughly. The multi-grain and organic white bread sticks with tomato marinara ($3) were great starters for our group. We decided to also get the olive tapenade ($2) for dipping and I’m glad we did. The combination of olives, garlic and red peppers made for a perfect dip. 

We wanted to get a good taste of the pizzas so we ordered four of the Specialty Pies – Founder’s Pie, Greek, goat cheese & sundried tomato and the Seattle. All specialty pies are served large, which is 18” x 9”, and on a wooden plank. You have the choice of multi-grain, organic white or gluten-free crusts and we decided to test out each one. Our Founder’s Pie ($20) came with chicken, tomato sauce, mozzarella, gorgonzola, provolone, parmesan, kalamata olives and red onions on a multi-grain crust. Every bite was filled with flavor. We decided to try the gluten-free crust on the Greek pizza ($18). This is one of the special options Pizza Fusion offers that attracts people from miles away. I’m not sure if it was the gluten-free crust or the toppings of kalamata olives, feta cheese, artichoke hearts, roma tomatoes, mozzarella, provolone and parmesan, but this was my favorite of the four. The crust was a little sweeter when compared to the multi-grain and organic white, but I can see why those eating on a gluten-free diet would be excited about this place. 

The goat cheese & sundried tomato pie ($17) tied for second with the Seattle according to my taste buds. The simplicity of goat cheese, sundried tomatoes, mozzarella, provolone and parmesan were perfect. The Seattle ($18) came with a delicious mix of freshly chopped tomatoes, red onions, fresh basil, garlic, balsamic vinaigrette and olive oil with light cheese (mozzarella, provolone and parmesan). 

I noticed on the chalk wall that the restaurant has great lunch specials and the build your own pizza option is enticing. In addition to organic wine and beer, they also serve Boylan sodas that use natural sugar and my favorite, Honest Tea. 

We had such a great time at Pizza Fusion. It’s unique in that the restaurant can host a group of ten or a couple on a date and everyone feels comfortable. The pizza is great and I love supporting a restaurant that uses organic ingredients and energy efficient appliances.

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JANUARY 2009

MARKET
3377 Peachtree Road (In the W Hotel Buckhead)
Atlanta, GA 30326
404-523-3600

When I first moved to Atlanta, I lived with two former New Yorkers who always talked about going out to the W Hotel in New York; so, you can see my enthusiasm when I heard the hotel chain was finally coming to Atlanta.  Even more exciting, Celebrity Chef Jean-George Vongerichten was opening some see-and-be-seen restaurants in the hotels. The first, Spice Market, opened in the W Hotel in Midtown some several months back, and the second, Market, just recently opened in the W Atlanta-Buckhead. After hearing about the opening, I decided to pop in and check out what all of the hype was about.

Upon pulling up to the hotel, there was a huge line for the valet, and there seemed to be a line to actually get inside the hotel.  Now, granted, I had picked one of the coldest nights in Atlanta this year, so it was certainly safe to assume that the crammed entranceway and extremely crowded bar was just folks trying to stay warm.

Nonetheless, after finally finding the entrance to the restaurant, we were happily greeted by the hostess.  She politely asked if we wanted to have a cocktail while waiting for a table, but we decided to pass since we had just fought our way through the crowd to get in the restaurant.  She gave a quick smile, and told us we could be seated immediately. Whew! 

After looking over the menu, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the prices weren’t nearly as high as I had anticipated. And, it was a very versatile menu – items ranged from pizza and burgers to lobster.  This is great for a hotel restaurant – it appeals to pretty much everyone.  We started out with the Niman Ranch bacon-wrapped shrimp ($10) and the shrimp salad with champagne vinaigrette ($9).  Both were very yummy!  Next for our entrees, I chose the steamed red snapper with pureed potatoes ($16) and my friend chose the lobster with potato wedges ($22). I wouldn’t say they were the best entrees I’ve ever tasted, but they were certainly good. 

About the wine list – I couldn’t quite get past the fact that they only had one chardonnay available by the glass…and it was $15.  So, nonetheless, I decided to go with another selection that was a little more in my budget.   

 On to dessert – we ordered two staple desserts I see on most menus these days – molten chocolate cake ($8), and apple torte ($8).  Both of these were very tasty as well!  

 The service was about as good as to be expected for a restaurant that just opened – the servers were a little clumsy, and food runners mixing up table numbers, but all in all, it was a very pleasant experience. 

 Oh, and I forgot to mention the chef – Ian Winslade.  He used to head up the kitchen at Spice Market.  I highly recommend visiting if you’re looking for a night on the town in a hip and trendy, new place.

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OCTOBER 2008

Dogwood
565 Peachtree Street

Atlanta, GA 30308

404-835-1410
www.dogwoodrestaurant.com   

Located on the ground floor of The Reynolds condominium building, Dogwood is pure elegance.  As we entered on a Friday night, we were welcomed by Owner Scott Black. I felt transported far from the hustle and bustle of Midtown Atlanta and was surprised at how peaceful the ambience turned out to be. 

My first suggestion: come hungry because you will want to dive into Dogwood’s bread from La Baguette Bakery; it cannot be missed and it is difficult to refrain from eating the entire loaf so as not to spoil the meal ahead.   

My friend and I began our dinner with the poppy seed tempura quail served with warm carrot salad, pecan-mint gremolata and citrus honey ($14) and eggplant, tomato and goat cheese blintzes with caramelized Vidalia onions and basil oil ($9).  The quail was moist but the tempura coating remained crisp and it worked nicely with the citrus honey.  It was the perfect portion for an appetizer, while the blintzes were a bit heartier but also very tasty. We have our eyes on the “grits bar” appetizer for next time! 

I ordered the crawfish, spinach and Gouda stuffed chicken breast, which came with a heaping pile of braised greens and was topped with natural jus ($21).  The presentation was lovely – the chicken roulade was arranged around the green – and I was pleasantly surprised at how subtle the flavor of the crawfish was when mixed with the spinach and Gouda, all three stuffing ingredients complemented each other.  My guest opted for the SoCo glazed pork chop with caramelized shallots and sweet corn soufflé ($25), which we were told has been one of the restaurant’s most popular items thus far.  The chop was very large and is a true testament to the Chef Shane Touhy’s ability to put a sophisticated Southern spin on American comfort food.   

While we were so stuffed we could barely breathe, we couldn’t resist sampling the restaurant’s menu of sweets.  For dessert we tried the grilled lemon pound cake with key lime butter cookie gelato and the classic crème brûlée (both $6 apiece).   

Another aspect of Dogwood that I found really impressive is the restaurant’s valet system.  While you enter the valet parking deck on Linden Avenue upon arrival, when we stepped out of the restaurant to leave, the valet was waiting right outside the door to take our ticket and immediately pulled our car up to the curb at the corner of Peachtree within a mere moment.  Talk about door-to-door service!  

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SEPTEMBER 2008

Holeman & Finch Public House
2277 Peachtree Rd NE
Atlanta, GA 30309
(404) 948-1175
www.holeman-finch.com

A dinner guest and I recently visited Holeman and Finch Public House (H&F), the latest restaurant venture of Restaurant Eugene owner, Linton Hopkins.  H&F had already received great reviews so we knew we had to go and see what all the buzz was about.   

When we first entered the restaurant, located in the Aramore condominium building, we were faced with an array of hanging cured meats, which automatically gave the space a unique style that we were sure to never forget. To the right, the bar was already crowded with people enjoying an after-work happy hour.  Groups had gathered at different tables and upbeat music played in the background while the bartenders poured drinks and chatted with customers.  Since there wasn’t much room left in the bar, we opted to sit in the dining area.   

Our waiter was a great source of information and answered any questions we had about the menu (there were quite of few).  We decided to start the evening off with a few cocktails that we had already heard so much about.  I had to try the Southern Cola and my guest, a devout whiskey fan, went with Cameron’s Kick.  Mine was very refreshing, just what I needed on the stifling summer day.  The sweetness of the coke and twang of the lime flavored ice cube gave the drink a cool flavor.  My guest’s drink definitely did what it said; it kicked.  He had to sip this one for a while, but enjoyed the whiskey and lemon combination. 

Next we decided to take the plunge and order a variety of dishes off the menu.  Having only been brave enough to try pate once before, I knew this was something I wanted to experiment with again ($7).  It came in a small jar with apple-cider jelly on top.  The pickled green tomatoes on the side made the perfect topping for the crunchy toast it was served with.  It didn’t take us long to scrape the jar clean.  We also went with the hen of the woods mushroom plate ($12) that was served in a miniature griddle pan over tasty polenta.  The mushrooms were sizzling hot and the polenta was a great counterpart for the somewhat salty flavor.   Our third plate was the skirt steak ($12) which really hit the spot.  It was tender, flavorful and easy to cut.  The potato puree complemented the dish nicely.  Lastly we went with the pork belly over creamy grits with charred onion and bread and butter pickle ($10).  The pork belly was moist and the grits were delightfully velvety smooth.  The combination of the pickle and onion made this dish one we didn’t want to share.   

Lastly, for dessert we went for the warm chocolate brownie with black pepper ice cream, toasted hazelnut and caramel sauce ($6).  Black pepper ice cream didn’t exactly sound like something I would usually order for dessert but after being pleasantly surprised throughout the meal, I knew we had to give it a whirl. Once again, Holeman and Finch did not disappoint.  We enjoyed the contrast of the sweet chocolate flavor with the slight spice of the black pepper ice cream. 

By the end of our time there (around 7:30), the restaurant had really filled up.  All the booths were occupied and the communal table was completely full.  The bar was still flowing at a lively pace.  Overall, we really enjoyed our experience at Holeman and Finch.  We were able to try a variety of dishes at a great price.  We can’t wait to visit late night and really experience the bar scene (and the burger)!

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JUNE 2008

STRAITS
793 Juniper St. NE  (Midtown)
Atlanta, GA 30308
Phone: (404) 877-1283

Walking into the Midtown restaurant, formerly occupied by Spice, one cannot help but be struck by the décor.   The bold colors, rich red, deep purple and regal gold, are beautifully balanced by the softly candlelit ambience.  I describe the décor as modern with traditional charm.  Nice.

The restaurant was not nearly as crowed as I would have imagined, and my guest and I were seated right away on the banquette, near the floor to ceiling windows which overlooked the adjacent street.    

This was the first time I had experienced Singaporean cuisine, though I generally fancy Asian food.  I was not sure what to expect.  Mojitos are my new favorite cocktail, so we decided to try the lemongrass mojito ($10), which is served with Bacardi rum, mint, fresh lime juice, lemongrass syrup and topped with sparkling soda.  It was crisp and distinct without losing the minty sweetness that characterizes the traditional mojito.  This drink would be perfect for sitting poolside on a cool summer evening.  

Small plates are all the rage now, which works out perfectly for me since I like to try a little of everything without feeling like I should have worn stretchy pants.  Our small plate parade consisted of calamari, Singapore satay sticks, and straits spare ribs.   

The calamari ($12), served with kaffir lime aioli and galanga cocktail sauce, was lightly peppered and the sauce was spicy and very reminiscent of ginger.  The satay sticks ($10) were grilled skewers of chicken, in spicy peanut sauce.  Although the sauce was delicious, it had a powerful peanut taste.  We both found the chicken to be slightly dry, which necessitated more sauce, so we decided that this was our least favorite dish.  The Straits spare ribs ($11) left no question as to why it carried the banner of the restaurant’s name.  The Bali style honey-glazed barbeque pork ribs were grilled to tender perfection.  The sauce was sweet and spicy, and was a great contrast to my mojito. 

For dinner, I had the tamarind beef ($28), which was filet mignon served with sweet potato fries and black pepper oyster sauce.  The filet was cooked medium, but still a little too tough for me.  The sweet potato fries were a great Southern twist to the otherwise traditional dish.  My guest had the lemongrass beef, a grilled marinated skirt steak, served with seasonal greens and straits frites ($24). After tasting her dish, I wished I had ordered that instead.  The meat was much more tender than mine and the Asian flavors popped. The Straits frites were slightly salty but decent overall. Everything was served with jasmine rice, which, disappointingly, only had a slight hint of jasmine.  

Our server was proficient, but did not wow us.  As slow an evening as it was, I hoped to get a little more attention than we had initially.  After the appetizers, however, the manager came over and chatted us up.  With a great sense of humor, he checked in on us periodically, made suggestions.  By the time he invited us back at the end of the meal, it felt like a friend inviting us over for a dinner party.   

The experience was good, but did not overwhelm either of us.  I would definitely give it another shot, since the manager was such a joy. 

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MAY 2008

HOME
111 W Paces Ferry Rd (Buckhead)
Atlanta, GA 30305
(404) 869-0777
www.heretoserverestaurants.com

HOME is the new incarnation of Posh, which was the new incarnation of Seeger’s.  Still with me?  Try this – it’s where “Top Chef” contender Richard Blais is now working.  Oh yeah!  

Our dinner was wonderful and the food is obviously king here.  Not much has changed décor-wise from Posh – they only closed a day or two for the changeover.  The service is predictably good.

We started with the pimiento-cheese "snack" - creamy and homemade on thin, crispy bread.  Such a wonderful starter!  Better even than the homemade versions at the Master’s.  I had the spring pea soup with ham hock and my friend had tomato soup with grilled cheese.  The flavors!  My gosh.  Every bite had a different pop, a different surprising taste.  This is pure Richard Blais - this is his gift.  I will admit to slurping to get every last taste.

The entrees were good too, but maybe less wow.  My friend had the short rib and I had the "bouillablais."  The short rib was delicious but it was a tiny portion. They also give you four little plates of veggies to round out the meal so it's not like you're starving like you were at Seeger's.  And the price was reasonable for the portion. The bouillablais was chock full of shellfish and seafood in a yummy broth.  It was a larger portion and filled me up.

We had the red velvet cake with the cream cheese ice cream for dessert.  As a southerner, I didn’t appreciate this “version” of my favorite church supper dessert.  It’s very popular though so it’s probably worth a try.    

Our server was an encyclopedia of information about the menu.  She was great.  The crowd was pretty thin when we arrived for our early reservation (6:45 thanks to OpenTable.com) but it filled up as the night went on.  We had to ask for them to turn on the music - it was scarily quiet.  Apparently they are having a little trouble with the system so it just goes out sometimes.  Whew!  I thought Tom Catherall had gone all Guenther Seeger on us there for a second.  I think HOME is the best version yet for this little white house.


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APRIL 2008

VITA
Neighborhood: Buckhead
2110 Peachtree Rd
Atlanta, GA 30309
(404) 367-8482
www.vitaatl.com  

The second I heard that Atlanta restaurateur, Tony LaRocco, was opening a new Italian restaurant in Buckhead, I was planning a trip to visit it. The other night I took my friend to VITA for dinner and we both loved it.  We sat on the covered patio since it was a really pretty afternoon.  I can see this being a popular spot when the hot summers hit Atlanta.

The visit began with a taste of two red wines from the wine list.  Owner Tony LaRocco suggested both and we settled on a bottle of the Masciarelli Montepulciano ($19).  The wine list was quite impressive with reasonable pricing and a good selection of wines by the glass. I counted and about half of the bottles on the list were under $30. Wines by the glass ranged from $5.50 to $12.  

I have been hearing great things about the mussels at VITA so we ordered them cooked in white wine with Gorgonzola cheese ($11).  You can order them cooked five different ways, so it was tough to decide. But since I'm a cheese person we went with this one.  It was the perfect combination and the bread hidden in the middle of the bowl soaking up all the juices was a good surprise. We ate these with ease and move on the next appetizer - the olive tapenademato with crostini bread ($7). Another hit at our table.  The olive spread with olive oil, garlic and herbs was an excellent way to begin the meal.

The menu has a lot of choices including dishes of pasta, chicken, steak, pork chops, veal and seafood.  I was in a seafood mood and opted for the shrimp fra diavolo ($19). I love spicy food and this hit the spot. The jumbo shrimp was sautéed with hot peppers and tomato sauce over linguini.  I’ve heard about Tony’s home-made meatballs and urged my friend to try the linguini with meatballs ($12).  Of course I tried a bite or two and I agree with the raves.  We had half boxed so we could save room for dessert.  We had an order of the cannolis ($5) and the tiramisu ($6). I love cannolis and it can be hard to find good ones. The plate came with five mini cannolis so it was easy to share with my guest.  The tiramisu was served in a martini glass and looked as delicious as it tasted.  It was hard to decide who chose the better dessert.  They were both great!

Everything we ordered came out with speed. There were no awkward moments when the server has to bring out a second serving of bread to hold you over.  All in all we had a great time on the patio at Vita.  The whole meal only came out to $85 which is great news for the next person I get to take me there!

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MARCH 2008

STEEL RESTAURANT & LOUNGE
950 West Peachtree Street
Atlanta, GA 30309
404-477-6111
www.steelatlanta.com 

Located in the hip Plaza Midtown condominium complex, this new addition to the Atlanta social scene is sure to be a hit among Midtown residents and visitors.  On a Wednesday night, the bar and lounge area was packed, as was the restaurant itself.  When you first enter, you will immediately notice the very sleek “rain curtain” that wraps around the bar and lounge area.  Dim lighting, tons of candles, and a new twist on Chinese lanterns for lighting, create a very sleek and contemporary atmosphere.   Continuing the new trend of Pan-Asian in Atlanta, the restaurant serves Indo-Chine and Japanese cuisine.   

We began our night in the bustling lounge area.  I had a glass of sparkling wine ($11), and my companion had a bourbon and ginger ($12).  A bit pricey for a weekly visit, but fine for those special occasions or a night on-the-town.   

When we were seated in the dining room, we were a bit overwhelmed with the menu…did we want sushi, or did we want some of the other specialties of the restaurant? They actually gave us two separate menus.   But, after checking out the outrageous prices of the sushi rolls (we’re talking twice the price of other sushi restaurants), we decided to order off the other Indo-Chine dinner menu.   

We started with appetizer selections of beef tataki – thin medallions of lightly seared tenderloin with yuzu-garlic soy sauce ($15); and Indo-Chine soft shell crab with sautéed garlic, onions, three chile pepper and spicy Ponzu sauce ($12).  Both were outstanding choices.   The beef tataki had freshly sliced jalapeno slices on it for added heat.  Being a fan of spicy food – this was certainly my favorite.

I had ordered a fabulous sake selection and a glass of water upon being seated and still had not received either at this point.  At this point, I was more concerned about the water than the sake, as my mouth was on fire.  Nonetheless, I grabbed our server as he made another lap around the restaurant and I was able to request the water again.  

Moving on to the entrée selection.  The manager had informed us about the house specialties, so we decided to order those.   I had the Chilean sea bass – baked sea bass served with a miso-wasabi sauce and jumbo asparagus ($26); and my companion had the Korean beef – grilled tenderloin marinated in Korean spices, served with house made kimchee , veggie pancake with scallions and baby bok choy ($23).   Again, both were excellent choices!   

Back to the sake and water – I finally received them both near the beginning of my entrée (sigh).    

With all of our food selections being very good, we couldn’t wait for dessert.   We couldn’t  find our server, so I flagged down the busboy to bring us the dessert menu.  We ordered the Chocolate Bento Box (for two people) – banana egg roll, chocolate soup, warm chocolate cake and chocolate ice cream ($14).   A dessert wine from a recent winery I had visited in California  caught my eye so I decided to order that as well – Justin Vineyards “Obtuse” cabernet ($7).  The dessert presentation was very cool.   And, the chocolate selections were to-die-for.  

In conclusion, we had a very nice evening, however, the food quality certainly surpassed the service.  Worth a drive across town for something different/hip/trendy, but not if you’re on a tight budget! 

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JANUARY 2008

Marlow’s Tavern - Midtown
950 West Peachtree Street

Atlanta, GA, 30309

404-815-0323
www.marlowstavern.com  

My first thought upon walking into Marlow’s Tavern in Midtown, located on the bottom floor of the sleek Plaza Midtown condominium complex along with several other dining establishments, is that this place is a really convenient “regular” hang out for Midtown residents.  On a Friday night, the bar area was packed and filled with laid-back live music covering the likes of Dave Matthews Band and Tonic.  This place will have you feeling right at home in no time, even if you don’t live in Midtown – and it was very elegantly decorated for the holiday season.  It is one of those “something for everyone” spots – sports fans will be grateful for the many plasma TVs adorning the walls, and guests at nearby Midtown hotels will appreciate the friendly service. 

Sipping two of the restaurant’s signature martinis, the winter spice martini ($8.25) and the ever popular pomegranate martini ($8.25), proved to be the perfect start to the meal.  The winter spice martini, mixed with chai tea, cinnamon and nutmeg, tasted like a lighter, vodka version of eggnog, and the pomegranate martini was very refreshing and featured strong hints of orange. 

My dining companion and I quickly dove into the selection of “Starters & Snacks” and decided on J.T.’s kettle chips ($5.95), firecracker shrimp ($7.95) and fiery crawfish fondue ($8.95).  The fiery crawfish fondue was my favorite: a thinner version of classic fondue, this creamy concoction made with gruyere cheese was served with toasted ciabatta crostini.  And I’m not sure who J.T. is, but the man has managed to inspire an addictive heap of potato chips topped with mild blue cheese, tomato, bacon and scallions. 

For a satisfying, yet sophisticated sandwich, the “Frisco” club (made with grilled chicken, apple wood smoked bacon, white cheddar and horseradish aioli for $9.95) is a sure bet.  It also includes shaved apple and red onion slaw, which added a unique flavor; and the sourdough bread was remarkably fresh.  My friend sampled the Columbian skirt steak ($16.95) from the “Tavern Favorites” section of the menu.  Surprisingly tender, the meat is topped with a rich wild mushroom-cognac reduction and accompanied by a hearty potato-leek bread stuffing that is a far cry from the boring Thanksgiving staple.  With our entrees, we had glasses of the Edmeades Zinfandel ($9.50/glass) and Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon ($11.50/glass) from the short but carefully chosen wine list.   

After our entrée plates were cleared, our server brought over a mini sampling of desserts and convinced us, despite our full tummies, to try the key lime pie, carrot cake and mudslide brownie ($2 apiece).  These two-bite sweets are an excellent way to get your sweet fix without stuffing yourself silly. 

As our meal came to a close, the restaurant was still hopping and made me wish I lived in a condo upstairs so I could stay for the rest of the night’s merriment and stumble home!   

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OCTOBER 2007

Valenza
1441 Dresden Drive
Suite 100
Atlanta, GA 30319
404-969-3233

 The departure of M!X left a void in the hearts of many Brookhavenites, so my guest and I were skeptical of whether Valenza, the new Italian restaurant that took its place, was ready for our loyalty.  When we arrived, we could see that many of our neighbors were already well-adjusted to the space.  A large, lively bar welcomes guests to the restaurant, which is adorned with antique candle chandeliers and Venetian plastered walls. Valenza is aptly prepared to quickly establish itself as a neighborhood favorite. 

 We were seated in a cozy backroom, which could easily seat 30 people in a private party situation.  Once we ordered our appetizers, fresh bread accompanied by olive oil was quickly ushered to the table.  I began with the fried seafood plate that included calamari, prawns and halibut with lemon and capers ($12).  It was light and flaky with a sweet undertone; plentiful and delicious!  My friends had the Caesar salad, which was served with anchovies.    

Our server was knowledgeable and gave us a quick tour of both the specials and the crowd pleasers.  We had been there nearly an hour by the time he took our order, so we were ready to eat.  I got the special -- a tomato risotto served with garlic-kissed scallops ($27).  I enjoyed every grain of parmesan carnoroli rice.  A classic carnivore, one of my friends ordered the manzo (ribeye) ($27).  It was served with parsley potatoes and green salsa.  Although he cleaned his plate, he concluded that it was not the best he’d ever had, but quite sufficient (he should have ordered what I got!).  My other friend, a much lighter eater, had the orecchiette (a small disk shaped pasta) with sausage ($15).  Based on looks alone, it was the evening’s winner.  The dish looked positively delectable!  It had hardy chunks of sausage and rabe bathed in extra virgin olive oil.  From my friend’s satisfied slump, I knew the pasta was yummy. 

Extremely pleased with the quality of our dinner, we decided to reward ourselves with dessert.  I had recently had an out-of-body experience with Kathryn King’s heavenly peach tart at Aria, so I decided not to press my luck with the peach crostada ($5), which both my guests had, and instead, went with the chocolate hazelnut torta ($6).  The rich, creamy mousse was undermined by a brick-like tort, which I could not seem to penetrate (even with a fork).  The peach crostada was fresh and not too sweet. 

At the end of the night, we decided that Valenza was a suitable substitute for M!X.  Although the service was a little slow, the bustling bar and scrumptious food, sans dessert, were a welcome addition to the developing neighborhood.  We have all been converted. 

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SEPTEMBER 2007

Kevin Rathbun Steak
154 Krog Street, Ste 200
Atlanta, Georgia 30307
Phone: 404.524.5600 
www.kevinrathbunsteak.com

             It is a certifiable trend – celebrity chef steakhouses are popping up at a tremendous rate across the country.  Atlanta, never too far behind the latest dining trend, has recently been graced with Kevin Rathbun Steak.  Considering Rathbun’s esteemed reputation and the smashing success of Rathbun’s and Krog bar, I was not the only one lining up for a reservation when the doors opened.

            Part of the appeal of a celebrity chef steakhouse is the addition of gourmet appetizers and side dishes to the incredible steak menu.  Kevin Rathbun Steak does not disappoint in its offerings.  We decided on our steak entrée right away but spent another twenty minutes deliberating over a shellfish tamale ($9.50), lobster fritters ($13.95), ahi tuna poke ($8.75), and an organic roasted beet salad ($7.95).

            In the end, we opted to start with the salt and pepper lobster fritters and the daily ceviche (market price).  The lobster fritters were delightfully large hunks of meaty lobster, lightly breaded and lightly fried.  The daily ceviche, made with large scallops, avocado and lime on our visit, was a terrible disappointment.  An overdose of lime covered every bit of flavor from the scallops, and the avocado was so scarce it didn’t even register on the palate. 

            The bread basket provided an unusual selection of caramelized onion rolls, jalapeno corn muffins, caraway seed rolls and raisin bread from Alon’s Bakery in Virginia Highlands.  Each bread choice was unique and held a surprising flavor punch.  The caraway roll, served with a mustard sauce instead of butter, was completely different from the typical bread offerings and a stellar start before dinner.  The jalapeno corn muffin was shockingly moist; it lacked the dry crumb so typical of cornbread and, instead, offered a dense, chewy mouthful of corn flavor.  On my next visit, I plan to start with a salad and enjoy the bread offerings instead of bothering with an appetizer.

            When it came to selecting an entrée, we both agreed the Prime, dry aged porterhouse for two ($64) was the way to go.  There was an impressive selection of steaks, veal, lamb, and seafood, but not ordering a steak at a celebrity steakhouse seemed a crime.  Ordered medium rare, the porterhouse came out just so – dripping in its own unctuous juices and covered with a healthy dose of salt; hardly a word was uttered as we focused on finishing every bite on the plate.

            Much like the appetizers, there was a mouth-watering selection of side dishes, such as cauliflower gratin ($7), jalapeno creamed corn ($6.95), and an elbow mac and cheese tart ($7).  We decided to indulge in the cauliflower gratin made with Gouda cheese and the French fries, served with Rathbun’s bleu cheese fondue ($6.95).  The cauliflower gratin, although prepared perfectly, offered an overdose of richness next to the equally rich steak, but the fries and bleu cheese fondue were a perfect foil for the mild saltiness of the steak.

            The dessert list offered a tempting variety of sweets – we sampled a Key lime tart ($6.25) and the ice cream bombe ($6.75).  The ice cream bombe, our favorite of the two desserts, was a layered triumph of chocolate, raspberry and pistachio ice cream, topped with a frothy, caramelized meringue.  In the end, the Key lime tart was sacrificed in order to finish off the mountainous ice cream bombe.

            Overall, the evening was highly enjoyable – good food, great service and very reasonable pricing for the current “IT” restaurant.  It is the perfect spot to celebrate a birthday, a promotion or just enjoy a quality steak in a low-key atmosphere.

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JULY-AUGUST 2007

French American Brasserie - F.A.B.
30 Ivan Allen Jr. Boulevard
Atlanta, GA 30308
(404) 266-1440
www.fabatlanta.com            

French American Brasserie, F.A.B. for short, continues the tradition of Atlanta’s Brasserie Le Coze in a beautiful new space.  Located in downtown Atlanta, F.A.B. reminded me and my guest of a traditional brasserie in France with a large interior, chandeliers, marble statues and a grand spiral staircase.    

We arrived early to enjoy a cocktail at the circular zinc bar that had classic French films playing over head.  I decided to try the F.A.B., a cool mixture of champagne and fresh raspberry puree ($10) and my guest had the French “75”, a cocktail of Miller’s gin, lemon juice, simple syrup and champagne ($10).  After starting the night with excellent drinks in an upscale bar atmosphere, we decided to find our table and dip into the food selections. 

            Complimentary bread is carried on the shoulder of a server in a huge basket and delivered to each table.  To accompany the bread, we ordered olive oil and garlic confit ($2) for dipping.  The butter just wasn’t enough for our table.  After looking over the lengthy list of small plates, we decided to share the Belgian endive salad with diced tomatoes, chives and Roquefort cheese ($10); and the foie gras au torchon with brioche croûte, cherry gelée and gastrique ($15).

            The salad was delivered to the table on two plates, making the sharing much easier.  The foie gras was served on individual crackers, which I found out from my French-speaking guest, is what “croûte” means.  The gastrique, a syrup reduction of caramelized sugar and vinegar, complimented the foie gras and added sweetness to the overall flavor of the dish.

            When it came time to order our entrees, we decided on the seafood platter, Le Plateau, for two ($49).  The dish included 12 oysters, clams, mussels, crab, shrimp and half a lobster with an assortment of sauces.  When the food arrived, our eyes widened as we saw the size of the platter with the two tiers covered in shell fish; this could have easily fed four as an appetizer.  Everything tasted like it came from the ocean earlier that morning, and I can proudly say there were no leftovers.  To accompany our dinner we selected a Chateau De Sancerre, Sancerre 2005 ($51).  The extensive wine list had several wines by the bottle, as well as by the glass, with quite a European representation. 

            For a sweet end to the night, we enjoyed the profiteroles with pistachio ice cream and toasted pistachios topped with a chocolate sauce ($6).  The presentation of the dessert was excellent, but the pastry was a little dry.  However, I did enjoy the refreshingly nutty pistachio ice cream.

            By the end of the night, the restaurant and bar were bustling with patrons of all ages.  As we left with full stomachs, we were already contemplating what to order the next time.

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MAY 2007

Posh
111 W. Paces Ferry Road
404-969-3250
www.heretoserverestaurants.com

Eagerly anticipating the new restaurant that was set to take over the old Seeger’s restaurant space, I was actually counting down the days until I could get into this new hot spot!  But, much to my surprise, little has changed about this house on West Paces Ferry Road.  If you’ve ever been to Seeger’s, you’ll notice immediately that almost everything at Posh, from the antique credenza at the entrance to the sofas in the lounge area have not changed.  

The hostess first began to seat us on the teeny-tiny patio out back, but it was a bit chilly outside, so I requested we sit in the main dining room.  Our requests were easily entertained, and my friend and I were seated at a quaint table next to a window.  The tables were adorned with white linens and tons of candles and fresh flowers were delicately placed on each.  The carpet (also unchanged) is a deep gold and black striped pattern.  With a dim lighting, this made for a very romantic, yet very comfortable setting.  Great for couples or groups of close friends…not so much for a first date and certainly not a place for singles.  

The menu itself is pretty much standard, up-market priced food. Only a few dishes actually grabbed my attention -- the terrine of ham knuckle and foie gras ($20); lamb tenderloin with spiced lentils and marsala yogurt ($29); and the bacon-wrapped duck breast stuffed with apples and chestnuts over celery root puree ($28).  Needless to say, that’s what we decided to order.

When ordering the appetizer of ham knuckle and foie gras, our server had recommended we order it hot instead of cold, and am I glad he did! We had peeked over at our neighbor’s table and realized that the dish itself had a huge resemblance to a slice of SPAM!  However, when ours arrived – just plain foie gras without the ham knuckle, served with pea puree and walnut oil, it was like heaven in our mouths.  That preparation was certainly one of the best I’ve ever had! Our entrees were an excellent choice as I had anticipated -- nothing too fancy or exciting, but nonetheless, very good.  Dessert wasn’t a hard choice seeing that our server decided for us what to get – a plain cheesecake-type dessert with strawberries ($12).   

Oh, and the wine list – very comparable to other fine-dining restaurants.  Many selections of cabernets and chardonnays, and a lot of Napa/California varietals.  Prices of bottles ranged from $40 - $250.   

The service at Posh is extremely friendly and relaxed. I was very impressed by our server’s honesty about certain dishes, and for that, I tipped him a little bit more than usual. 

In conclusion, Posh is straightforward, rather normal, and a little boring for my taste.  It certainly has the components for a great run of-the-mill fine dining restaurant, but nothing that would make folks drive across town for.   

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APRIL 2007

Bonefish Grill
11705 C. Jones Bridge Road
Alpharetta, GA 30005
(770) 475-6668
www.bonefishgrill.com 

My dinner guest and I arrived early for our 7 p.m. dinner reservation at Bonefish Grill, excited to sample the Florida-inspired seafood cuisine and surprised to see dozens of people spilling out of the entrance door.  With every bar stool taken, we placed our drink orders and then squeezed ourselves into a small space of standing room amongst Masters Tournament fans fixated on the big screens and children whizzing around while the parents waited to be seated.  My dinner companion, a devout margarita drinker, delighted in her Rita-Tini ($7.50), an upscale version of the traditional drink but served in a chilled, salt-rimmed martini glass.  Meanwhile I sipped a pomegranate martini ($6.90) that was filled to the rim and included a hint of mango.  

My guest and I were seated in an intimate booth near the bar area.  Our server presented the specials for the evening just before my guest and I perused the starter menu, deciding on the saucy shrimp ($7.90) and the mussels Josephine ($8.50).  The Mediterranean-style shrimp dish was served in a rich tomato garlic sauce made complete by the distinct flavor of feta cheese.  The Prince Edward Island mussels were sautéed with tomatoes and presented in a gigantic bowl that held a portion size large enough to split among a family.  

The server delivered a bread basket and explained the dry pesto ingredients before adding the extra virgin olive oil as an accompaniment for the main course.

Based on our server’s descriptions of the different fish species and suggestions for the variety of sauces and toppings, we ordered main course selections and a bottle of Rodney Strong Merlot, Sonoma ($33).  My guest ordered the sea scallops & Gulf shrimp ($15.90) topped with a tropical mango salsa and served with steamed vegetables. The dish combined the sweet flavor of the salsa with the tender, melt-in-your-mouth scallops.  I selected a buttery Chilean sea bass ($22) dusted with a delicate Mediterranean sauce of olive oil, citrus juices and fresh herb seasoning.  The grilled fish dish with sides of potatoes au-gratin and sautéed carrots was another apparent display of the overflowing portions.  

With no need for a dessert but much desire, we confronted the toss up between the deep dish Key lime pie that seemed fitting for a seafood meal and chocolate macadamia nut brownie cake ($5.50).  My chocolate-loving tendency swayed the vote and moments later my guest and I dug into a brownie square crowned with rich homemade whipping cream.  I scooped up the vanilla ice cream, and warm chocolate emerged from the interior to create a perfect ending to an evening of indulgences.

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MARCH 2007

JCT Kitchen & Bar
1198 Howell Mill Road, Suite 18
Atlanta, GA 30318
404-355-2252
www.jctkitchen.com  

Nestled in the Westside Urban Market, JCT Kitchen & Bar is among many much loved dining establishments from Bacchanalia to Taqueria del Sol, and I had high hopes that it would join the ranks.  With a Pottery Barn feel and a selection of laid-back songs playing in the background, JCT had my guest and me feeling right at home in no time.   As we sat down at our table, the blue and white kitchen cloths posing as napkins set the scene for the charming evening to follow.    

Starting off with glasses of Durham Three Legged Red ($12) and Tiamo Pinot Grigio ($7), we dove into a gigantic mound of truffle-parmesan fries ($7).  Crisp and well-seasoned (unlike most dishes claiming the truffle card), this appetizer is a very large portion meant for sharing.  The seafood “cocktail” ($9) is another appealing starter.  With chunks of fresh shrimp and crab submerged in a sauce reminiscent of a hearty Bloody Mary and served in a glass, it is quite tempting – and almost feels acceptable – to drink the remains.   

Curious to try Chef Ford Fry’s take on “Southern farmstead cooking,” we opted for the shrimp and grits and chicken and dumplings as entrees.  The chicken dish had a lovely French bistro touch, and the red wine braised meat is tender as can be, falling right off the bone, while the gnocchi were little pillows of perfection.  However, the skin on the chicken was tremendously slimy and I found myself peeling it off before each bite. 

The shrimp & grits are a true testament to Fry’s magical touch with Southern favorites.  The creamy organic grits lay the foundation for juicy shrimp served alongside a hefty piece of crusty bread to soak up the last of the creamy goodness.  A simple dish that will not steer you wrong, the preparation really shows off the chef’s skills. 

With full stomachs, we contemplated dessert as our server regaled us with a heartwarming tale about her son embarking on his first job and vowing to take her on a cruise with his earnings (exactly how I would imagine families living in a Pottery Barn catalogue would behave!).  My dining companion does not have a sweet tooth and has always preferred to eat more of her entrée rather than order dessert, but she decided to try the banana cream pie ($7).  I can honestly say I’ve never seen her use her fork with such force and delight.  The childlike grin never left her face as she gobbled up the creamy banana custard in its flaky yet sturdy shell.  This is not your average banana cream pie.  Topped with caramelized banana slices, it is served as an individual tart and with good reason because you will not want to share it.  The gingerbread pudding ($7) had a similar effect on me.  A thick slice of cake with gooey layers is accompanied by a lemon curd that balances the spiciness of the dessert with its tartness. 

By the end of our meal, the dining room was full and the noise level had increased dramatically, sadly drowning out the stellar music selection.  That Pottery Barn character mentioned earlier developed into a more stylish scene, and as the restaurant name suggests, we found ourselves at the junction of homey and trendy.  This is a crossroads I’d like to find myself at more often. 

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FEBRUARY 2007

Seasons 52 Fresh Grill
90 Perimeter Center West
Dunwoody, GA 30346 (New location in Buckhead, too. Next to Nava; Ptree and WPF)
(770) 671-0052
www.seasons52.com 

On a chilly night, we were welcomed by a roaring fire and the cozy ambiance of this mountain-inspired restaurant decorated with large leather booths and mahogany tables.   

By candlelight, we perused the extensive drink list containing more than 140 adventurous, international wines, with over 70 available by the glass.  Our waitress offered a great suggestion and we went with a bottle of the Selbach-Oster Kabinett Riesling.  She also insisted that we order a flatbread appetizer, a spicy chipotle shrimp flatbread with grilled pineapple and fire roasted poblanos ($7.95).  We also ordered the chicken skewers grilled over mesquite and served with roasted corn salad and avocado ($7.25) for a little variety among our appetizers.  The contrasting flavors of the juicy pineapple and the spicy peppers gave the flatbread outstanding flavor, and the chicken skewers were juicy and tender.  We were excited to move on to the main course.  

For our entrees, we ordered the cedar plank roasted salmon ($16.95) and the jumbo shrimp stuffed with lump crab ($21.75).  Both meals featured satisfying flavors that exceeded our expectations.  We were even more pleased with the meal when our waitress explained the nutritional information.  She said that every item on the  menu contains less than 475 calories, and each meal is balanced to include the lean meats and seafood, good carbohydrates and beneficial oils.  This information made us much more willing to top of our meals with dessert.   

To go along with the health-inspired menu, the desserts are sort of mini indulgences: a shot-sized serving of some of the most decadent sweets ($1.95 each).  We treated ourselves to carrot cake and rocky road.  These pint-sized selections were the perfect ending to our autumn-inspired meal.   

To our surprise, the bill was under $100, which we found very reasonable for a hearty and variety-filled dinner.  Seasons 52 is an answer to the prayers of health-conscious Atlantans looking for a flavorful meal.             

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JANUARY 2007

Ibiza Restaurant and Lounge
2285 Peachtree Road, Ste. 100
Atlanta, GA 30309
(404) 352-3081
www.ibizarestaurantlounge.com

Excited for the chance to eat authentic tapas as I did during my college exchange program in Spain, a friend and I decided to travel to Ibiza. On a rather chilly night, we were welcomed into the crowded, Mediterranean-inspired restaurant by salsa music blasting from the DJ stand and a large crowd at the bar. This place gets pretty full on the weekends, and even though we couldn’t nab one of the secluded Moroccan-inspired booths, we did get a table near the dance floor.  

I scanned the drink menu which included an extensive wine list and creative cocktails. Deciding on cosmopolitans, we soon turned to the even bigger tapas menu. These traditional Spanish dishes are small but flavorful, so we started off the night with the tortilla Española (Spanish omelet, $5), croquetas de carne ($6) and seared scallops ($8). True to my Spanish madre’s cooking, our dishes were authentic and delicious. We had a few bites of each dish before going back to the menu for more.  

What’s great about tapas is that you can experience a plethora of tastes without being too full or leaving your wallet empty. This is true with Ibiza. After our Pinot Grigio arrived (a great complement to the mostly seafood menu), we ordered round two. The hummus ($4); camarones al ajillo (sauteed shrimp, $5); and grilled marinated beef, chicken and shrimp pinchitos (kabobs, $9) were appetizing and surprisingly light. Our favorite dish of the night came last; the martini crab lobster ($9). This martini glass overflowing with chopped crab, lobster, onions and chives was the perfect ending to a flavorful dinner.  

We were satisfied, but not too full to pass over the dessert menu. By this time, the salsa floor was in full force. Spanish-inspired dance music was blasting from the DJ stand, and two professional salsa dancers were giving a great show.  Once our chocolate mousse and pecan tarte pie arrived, guests had migrated to the floor for a complimentary salsa lesson. We decided to stay at the table, drink our Bailey’s coffee, and watch some intoxicated diners try to imitate the professionals.  

By the time our night ended, the bill was long but surprisingly reasonable. The bar was now full of an international and well-dressed crowd, similar to the bars on Spain’s infamous party island, Ibiza.

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DECEMBER 2006

Shaun’s
1029 Edgewood Avenue
Atlanta, GA 30307
404-577-4358
www.shaunsrestaurant.com  

Having been teased for months about the pending opening of star chef Shaun Doty’s eponymous restaurant, my dining partner and I practically ran through the front doors once they opened to the public.  The comfortable, American-lodge feel of the tiny restaurant, combined with Doty’s creative American cuisine, is just what one would hope to discover in the neighborhood spot.

            Considering our late reservations, we were predictably famished by the time we looked over the menu.  We started with appetizers of butternut squash ravioli ($9), beef tartar ($14) and a crispy Sardinian flatbread ($10). 

The Sardinian flatbread, topped with arugula, argan oil and a dry Monterey Jack cheese, would have been our favorite dish by far except for the incredible amount of salt on it.  The paper thin flatbread, mild cheese, peppery arugula and slightly nutty oil are a brilliant combination, but the heavy-handed sprinkling of salt dominated the dish and we left most of it uneaten.  The tartar on the other hand, was perfect.  Loaded with fresh parsley, bits of artichoke and parmesan and topped with Piquillo pepper coulis, the whole dish tasted clean and bright.  The ravioli was another dish that was almost great, steaming hot and topped with crumbled ameretti, sage leaves and pine nut foam.  Yet, the actual pasta was far too al dente and the chewiness overpowered the smooth butternut squash filling. 

            Happily, our entrées more than made up for the kinks in the appetizers.  The parmesan risotto came highly recommended and for good reason.  It was gorgeous – thick and velvety, topped with piles of chanterelle mushrooms and black truffle butter.  I literally found myself closing my eyes and sighing with pleasure after each bite.  We also sampled the beef tenderloin (market price) served with a simple grilled potato cake akin to hash browns.  The tenderloin was cooked exactly to order with a slightly crusty outside and juicy inside.   Both entrées were well-seasoned and satisfying.

            To match the entrées, we selected a Domaine Leon Barral Faugeres, Languedoc 2003 ($45) from the heavily European wine list.  The wine list pleasantly lacks many of the usual suspects and instead offers some of the less common varietals.  Be warned though, our server was not terribly knowledgeable about the offerings.

            With the plates finally cleared and the last of the wine sipped, we had no choice but to order dessert - a lemon pound cake ($8) topped with a soft whipped cream and poppy seed ice cream and a goat cheesecake ($8).  Our server promised the goat cheesecake wouldn’t disappoint but sadly it did.  Our server came back moments later to apologize – apparently the small kitchen was a bit too crowded and the cheesecake ended upside down on the floor.  In its place, I opted for the chocolate tart with espresso ice cream.  The chocolate tart was predictably dense and chocolaty and the espresso ice cream, an excellent partner, was studded with strong coffee bean grounds.  The lemon pound cake was a favorite with an unexpectedly crusty outside and dense center laced with hints of lemon.

            As our dinner ended, we stepped out into the cold and reviewed the night.  The service was a little sporadic and some of the dishes had a few kinks to be worked out; but in terms of the atmosphere and dishes that match the cravings of the season Shaun’s is right on track.  We can’t wait to go back.

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July 2006

Ecco
40 7th Street (Midtown)
Atlanta, GA 30308
404-347-9555
www.fifthgroup.com  

I recently had an out-of-town friend decide to make a trip to the ATL for a visit and taste of the city’s best cuisine.  Having heard a lot of buzz about Ecco, I figured it would be the perfect place to dine and catch up. 

Upon entering, my eyes were immediately drawn to the ultra-chic, oversized bar, which is adorned by sleek leather barstools and decorative bar-mounted lamps.  Taking my seat, I ordered Ecco’s Gibson with Modern Spirits Black Truffle Vodka and pearl onions, which they pickle in house.  It was a nice way to unwind and pass the time. 

When my friend arrived, we decided to people watch and dine at the bar.  Looking over the menu, we noticed a good-sized selection of “taste & share” dishes such as short rib stuffed piquillo peppers ($7) and bruschetta of the day ($6).  However, we decided to order a meat and cheese platter complete with prosciutto de Parma, sopressata and speck alongside tetilla and Gorgonzola dolce cheeses ($18).  The smoky flavor of the speck and the succulent prosciutto and sopressata mixed well with the aged cheese selections, which were well worth the scent. 

After we finished our appetizer, we decided it was time to have the main course.  We looked over their wood fired pizza selection, which included toppings such as sweet onions, fontina and wood smoked mushrooms, but decided that their main dishes sounded too enticing to pass up. 

I ordered the fig glazed lamb loin with warm potatoes and chicory ($34), and my friend ordered the balsamic marinated quail with pine nuts and cauliflower ($22).  We also ordered a bottle of “Old World” French pinot noir off their lengthy wine list, which offers both Old and “New World” wines fit for occasional wine drinkers and oenophiles alike. 

When our entrees arrived, I was eager to dig in.  The lamb was sweet yet savory and my friend really enjoyed the quail, which I was able to sample almost to the peril of my hand (my friend was quite hungry).  The rich balsamic marinade softened the natural gaminess of the quail but did not overpower it.  Overall, we were both happy with our entrée choices.  

To top off the night, we enjoyed the ricotta torte with warm sour cherries and orange confiture ($8) and burnt honey and Gorgonzola ice milk ($6)  There were quite a few desserts on the menu to try, but we were a too stuffed to sample more than two. 

By the end of the evening, both our stomachs were quite satisfied with my decision to visit Ecco.  I think it is definitely worth another trip in the future.

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June 2006

Pangaea
1082 Huff Road
Atlanta, GA 30318
404-350-8787
www.globalgrubbin.com

In a nod to the recent gorgeous weather, we decided to step out at lunch and enjoy the sun and some gourmet eats on the patio of Pangaea.  No longer a newcomer to the Atlanta lunch scene, the west Midtown hotspot is a favorite among those employed or living in the area.

Pangaea’s token slogan, “Global Grub” describes the menu perfectly.   Appetizers, all $4, consist of hummus, barbeque beef tips with tamarind glaze and a soup of the day.  Admittedly, appetizers are something we tend to skip at lunch but the hummus with grilled pita bread ($4) is a must try.  A generous portion of flavorful hummus topped with a sprinkling of diced tomatoes and cucumbers was a tasty way to start lunch.         
Entrées consist of a huge list of international sandwiches ($5.95 - $8.50), salads ($7.75 – $8.50) and noodle bowls ($6.75 - $8.50).  My guest and I both opted for the huge sandwiches.   The Bahn Mi sandwich is one of Pangaea’s best sellers – a crispy baguette is layered with pickled daikon (a large Asian radish) and carrot, cucumber, cilantro, fresh jalapeno and mayonnaise.  Lunchers can choose a meat of lemongrass pork, chicken, tofu or shrimp.  The sandwich has a great flavor that melds perfectly, and after one bite of the lemongrass pork, I could see why this was a best seller ($5.95)!

We also sampled the Shawarma sandwich ($6.50), a unique interpretation of a classic middle-eastern sandwich.  Grilled flatbread is filled with tomato, cucumber, lettuce, tahini and a choice of seasoned lamb and beef or chicken.  We sampled the chicken version and found it quite satisfying.

Other menu items that caught my eye were a Mediterranean tuna sandwich ($6.50) made with fresh grilled tuna, capers, red peppers, olives and basil pesto; the Saigon salad ($7.75) mixed greens, grilled vegetables, lemongrass pork, chicken or tofu and a sesame-soy dressing; and the Pacific Rim fish du jour noodle bowl ($8.50) a cold rice-vermicelli noodle bowl served on a bed of shredded lettuce, cilantro, pickled daikon and carrots, cucumber, fresh jalapeno, chopped peanuts, a light chili-lime sauce and topped with the fish of the day.

On a side note, Pangaea also offers a special selection of exotic drinks which add an element of fun into an already unique lunch.  Our exotic drink of the day was a passion fruit lemonade which was icy cold and delicious ($2.00).

It is easy to see why Pangaea is such a favorite – a pretty day and some of their global grub makes for an instant vacation (even if it is only for an hour lunch break)!

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May 2006

South City Kitchen Vinings
1675 Cumberland Parkway
Atlanta, GA 30080
770-435-0700
www.fifthgroup.com

Hoping to take advantage of happy hour, my guest and I arrived just in time to snag two of the last seats at the bar.  Be forewarned, space fills up quickly, and you won’t want to miss out on sipping a pineapple upside down cake martini (it’s as close as you can get to the real thing in liquid form) while waiting for your table or catching up with friends.   

Shortly thereafter, we were whisked to a table behind the giant wine wall and greeted by a friendly server with a mental stash of excellent wine suggestions and menu recommendations.  For appetizers, we sampled the Gulf shrimp “corn dogs” with chipotle ketchup, horseradish mustard and crispy tater tots ($9.50) – a gourmet nod to fair food that won’t make you feel guilty, but instead, giddy that such gastronomic delight can come on a stick.  For another fresh start, the spinach salad with apples, red onion, celery root and toasted pecan vinaigrette ($7.25) will really make you want to eat your greens.  

Looking for a true taste of the restaurant’s “contemporary Southern cuisine,” we had to sample at least one entrée from the “Southern Inspirations” section of the menu: buttermilk fried chicken ($15.75).  I can now see why this is one of the most popular and longstanding dishes.  The chicken is moist and tender beneath the crispy, irresistible coating – and elicited many “ooohs” and “ahhs” from my guest.   

We also ordered the smoked and braised pork shoulder with Brussels sprouts
and mustard creamed leeks ($16.95).  The meat was tender, moist and full of flavor.  The dish melted in my mouth, and Executive Chef Timothy Magee sure knows how to prepare Brussels sprouts far better than the ones your mom shoved down your throat as a kid.  

Whether you’re a true Southerner or just pretending to be one for the weekend, who could pass up a slice of chocolate pecan pie?  South City Kitchen Vinings does it right with caramel, chocolate sauce and vanilla ice cream ($7).  We also opted for the vanilla cheesecake with gingered apple compote and basil syrup ($7).  Not being much of a cheesecake lover myself, I was pleasantly surprised.  This slice of sweetness is not your average piece of cheesecake – rich and creamy, not heavy and dense.  The basil syrup packed an added punch of flavor to liven up what is generally a boring dessert choice.   

As the younger sibling of South City Kitchen Midtown, the Vinings location is already following in the footsteps of success.  With enough unique features to please the suburban crowd, and the same high-end Southern fare that have made Midtowners come flocking since 1993, South City Kitchen Vinings certainly doesn’t have a future as the red headed stepchild.

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MARCH 2006

Lobby at TWELVE
Ground floor of TWELVE Hotel & Residences at AtlanticStation
361 17th Street
Atlanta, GA 30363
404.961.7370 (phone)
www.lobbyattwelve.com 

This new venue at the super-uber-hot and anticipated Atlantic Station has a laidback and welcoming vibe with chaise lounges and a fireplace providing a warm greeting. When my friend and I arrive around 9:30 p.m. on a Wednesday, we find men and women in suits lounging after work at the sleek bar, and a contingent of more casually dressed groups ready for a night out.  

Just behind the bustling bar is the dining room, which features floor-to-ceiling windows and long gauzy curtains. The décor is simple but rich, with dark wood tables, cozy booths and candlelight.  The setting is intimate, but not uncomfortably so.  Lobby would be great for a first date or anniversary as well as a business dinner.

We immediately surveyed the extensive wine and cocktail lists; the latter full of hotel-appropriate names such as Late Check-Out and The Lobby ($9) - a pomegranate mojito that was minty and sweet, but not too strong.  My companion began with wine, letting our knowledgeable server point her to a fabulous Riesling ($9 a glass).

Noshing on tasty, seasoned breadsticks with warm olive oil and pepper, we perused the menu of contemporary American fare. The wood oven pizzas and the salads really jumped out at us, but an adventurous mood led us to ask for appetizer recommendations.  Our server steered us towards the charcuterie and cheese plate ($12), which featured three cold meats, three cheeses and a date jam, along with French bread and warm raisin bread.  Unfortunately, it ended up leaving us a bit cold.  

Undeterred, we forged ahead to dinner and decided on two staples - New York Strip ($26) and roasted half chicken ($16).  The vegetable sides have a unique presentation at Lobby.  A daily selection of four vegetables - cauliflower au gratin, glazed rutabaga, braised sweet potatoes, creamy polenta, chick peas and roasted Brussels sprouts have all made the list - are served on a lazy-Susan and shared by the table.  Kudos to Executive Chef Nick Oltarsh, formerly of Murphy’s in Virginia-Highland.  My strip was cooked to medium rare perfection, and the garlic butter and red wine sauce added great flavor.  My friend’s chicken was moist and also very flavorful, but the big draw for us was the roasted garlic mashed potatoes, which get a berth amongst the four vegetables every day. Whipped to a very smooth consistency, they really complement the heavier entrees well. 

Stuffed but too tempted by the desserts to call it a night, we split the brioche and chocolate fondue ($6).  The small cinnamon donuts were warm and soft, and the chocolate was rich and filling. All the desserts at Lobby are $6 and relatively small - a welcome treat after a large meal.  

The casual atmosphere, fun drinks and hearty food make Lobby a great destination.  I would go back for the mashed potatoes alone.   

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FEBRUARY 2006

M!X
1441 Dresden Drive (Brookhaven))
Atlanta, GA 30319
404-969-3250
www.mixrestaurant.com 

Being a HUGE fan of Haven, I had to try this new addition to the Michel Arnette Restaurant Group.   

M!X could be the new “IT” place in Atlanta – it’s fun, friendly and hip, especially on Friday nights.  From the huge lava lights to the groovy 70s décor, it’s easy to sip on a lemon basil martini while listening to the modern jazz tunes coming from the DJ booth. And did I mention there is no lack of comfortable seating in the entire restaurant? The restaurant includes a large red sofa in the lounge area and comfy “curvette” banquettes throughout the dining room, allowing the high-energy buzz from the bar to spill out through the restaurant.  And does this place have a happening bar scene?!  Perfect for first dates, couples who have been together for years or just a night out with friends. 

Serving “creative American small plates -- there are Asian, Italian and Mediterranean ingredients and influences, there are a variety of options and price points available. For a starter, we tried the lobster bisque with saffron, ginger and edamame ($9).  Next we sampled the cold smoked salmon pizza topped with caviar, capers and goat cheese ($7).  It was more a flour tortilla topped with salmon than a “pizza,” but nonetheless was very tasty!   

Next, we decided to venture out and try something that was a bit different – baby octopus with peppers, avocado and wasabi aioli ($9).  It actually wasn’t too bad – if you can get past the fact that you’re eating a baby octopus!  Last but not least – we had the hanger steak with pomme frites and miso yuzu hollandaise ($11).  It was a fairly large portion of steak served alongside some of the crispiest and most flavorful fries I’ve had in a long time!

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JANUARY 2006

Tin Lizzy’s Taqueria & Cantina
3639 Piedmont Road (just south of Roswell Rd in Buckhead)
Atlanta, GA  30305
404-846-6000 

The last time I visited this prime real estate in Buckhead at the corner of Piedmont and Roswell, it was a pretty good restaurant called Arugula.  Since then, a po’ boy establishment has come and gone, and now we have Tin Lizzy’s.   

Billing itself as Buckhead’s Authentic Taqueria & Cantina, Tin Lizzy’s offers a respectable bar scene with daily beer and margarita specials to go with your queso dip and chips (more on these later).  And the taqueria offerings include a delicious lineup of tacos - served on fresh grilled flour tortillas ($1.99-$2.99), and tortas - served on fresh baked bread ($5.99-$6.99).   

You can get an assortment of fillings, from fried or BBQ chicken to fried tilapia and carne asada.  All pretty basic choices, and all pretty delicious. The Cajun taco comes with andouille sausage and a Cajun voodoo sauce that made it a standout.  Sides of salsa fresca and very fresh guacamole with generous chunks of avocado round out the plate.   

Appetizers include quesadillas ($3.99) - I ordered mine with carne asada steak (add $2.99) - chicken fingers ($4.99) and fried pickles with that spicy voodoo sauce that they do so well ($3.99).  And as for those chips, they are lightly seasoned with a salt and paprika mixture that elevates them above the basic chip.  This seems to be the secret to what I hope is success for Tin Lizzy’s - taking the basic offerings you can find in any taqueria and presenting them in such a fresh, just-plain-good manner that it’s elevated to repeat-business status.   

They aren’t breaking any new ground over there, but they sure are making some tasty food.  And for those times when you want to share tacos and beer with friends, you aren’t looking for anything fancy.  Entrée salads ($5.99) with a variety of meat toppings (add $1.99-$2.99) are available as well, as are Oreo cookie pie and Heath Bar cheesecake desserts ($3.99).  Notice anything about all of these prices?  So reasonable!  And in Buckhead, no less.  Factor in the comfortable atmosphere and friendly, efficient service, and I’ll be back.  Hopefully they’ll have a basket of chips and a casa margarita waiting for me. 

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NOVEMBER 2005

Table 1280
1280 Peachtree Street NE
Atlanta, GA 30309
404-897-1280
www.table1280.com

Brunch: Sunday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Tapas are served Tuesday – Sunday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. 

A recent excursion to the High Museum brought about the perfect opportunity to prolong my night on the Woodruff Arts Center campus and make reservations for Executive Chef Shaun Doty’s latest adventure, Table 1280. 

We strolled in for our 9 p.m. reservations and were immediately seated.  The hostess indicated we were lucky to sit so fast – on nights that the arts center holds large events, the restaurant fills up quickly, and seating can be hard to come by.   

Since Doty’s resume includes a stint working in Europe, I decided to start with a typical European dish, escargot.  Typical it was not!  Doty is certainly well trained with European fare.  Served with poached eggs and Yukon mashed potatoes for $10, this dish was a wonderful introduction.  My friend ordered a few raw oysters, priced at $2.50 each, and raved about how fresh they were.  Other starters include Kabocha squash soup served with chestnut foam and pumpkin seed oil ($8); and seared foie gras with orange cumin sauce and a fig crêpe ($18). 

When it came time for our main course, our server was quite helpful with pointing out everything that the restaurant had run out of prior to our arrival.  It felt like half of the menu!  Apparently, the surf and turf – grilled Angus beef sirloin and lobster mashed potatoes – for $33, and the whole roasted fish served with chickpea fries, fennel salad and wild oregano for $28, were all the rage during the restaurant’s bustling early hours.  We both settled on the olive oil poached halibut served with white beans, pancetta, cockles and piquillo peppers for $28.  The fish was a little dry, and the white beans only added starch to the mix, which caused me to appreciate my bottle of white wine more than usual. 

Desserts by Pastry Chef Edouard Fenouil do not disappoint.  My vanilla bean crème brûlée was magnificent, and my friend had a few scoops of vanilla ice cream, both priced at $8.  Other similar-priced options include Georgia apple galette with caramel crème fraiche ice cream; and honey semifreddo with a poached apple and cheddar biscuit. 

What could be better than enjoying a nice meal with friends after an Atlanta Symphony performance or an exhibit at the High Museum?  The food is great and the atmosphere is relaxed.  There is definitely a bright future ahead for Table 1280.  

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SEPTEMBER 2005

Piebar
2160 Monroe Drive
Atlanta, GA 30324
404-815-1605  

www.piebar.com

Arriving early to beat the masses, my friend and I grabbed seats at the bar in front of the pizza station.  We couldn’t take our eyes off the two "pie stylists" working fast and furiously in front of the southeast’s largest pizza oven.  The oven and its chimney system give Piebar a spaceship-like décor.  I felt as if we would take off into flight at any moment – or at least travel back into the 60s when the building was the site of Trust Company Bank.    

Trying to identify our server, my friend discovered there were more Piebar staff members than customers.  The restaurant is prepared for the influx of crowds, which is a smart move when you’re hip restaurateur Bob Amick.  He’s obviously learned a few things from his other two hotspots, ONE.midtown kitchen and Two.urban licks.  

To start things off, we sampled the specialty libations (all $6): the suntini and the scroppini, which really sparked my interest.  The suntini is a fresh blend of vodka, basil and tea – strong yet refreshing.  The scroppini is a mixture of grappa, prosecco and lemon sorbet served in a champagne flute.  We also sampled two micro plates: bruschetta with raw tuna, tomato and basil ($6) and fresh figs with prosciutto, parmesan foam and almonds ($9).  The figs and prosciutto make a heavenly combination.  The parmesan foam was more of a mousse, but all of the different flavors and textures meshed very well together.  The bruschetta was fair and had an overpowering aftertaste.  The micro plates come in four price ranges ($4, $6, $9, $12), or guests can build their own start to the meal with a wide selection of antipasto items. 

For our entrées, we decided to be adventurous and sample two of the unique pizza selections. The pies come in half ($7) and whole ($14) sizes and run the gamut on the oddity scale.  We opted for a half with peaches, fontina, aged balsamic and peppermint.  We also tried a half with bacon, quail egg, breakfast sausage and maple.  Though a bit over laden with sausage, this one really grew on me.  This option, however, is not for weak stomachs – the quail eggs are served sunny side up and rather runny.     

We finished up the meal with one of the many flavors of gelato – rosemary pine nut cherry ($4), which I recommend.  I know what you’re thinking, this combination could take a horribly wrong turn, but the slightest touch of rosemary and the occasional pine nut do wonders for the juicy cherry chunks.  After all the quirky combinations, the peppermint chocolate chip ice cream sandwich sounded like a comforting ending.  It even came wrapped in cellophane like a gift.  A gift it was not, though it did bear some resemblance to the holidays; it tasted like a Christmas tree (or what I imagine one would taste like).   

Piebar is a trendy venue with an intriguing menu selection and reasonably priced wine and cocktails – a great place to round up the troops for a fun evening out!  I’m anxious for my next visit, mostly so I can play around with the build-your-own antipasto selection and sit on one of the “pods” on the outdoor patio (formerly coverings for the drive-through banking windows).   

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One of my worst meals in an Atlanta restaurant.  I thought the menu
selections were a joke, and a nauseating joke at that.  This place is a
prime example of the emperor's new clothes-- it tries to appear trendy and
unique so that its unfortunate patrons are too afraid to say it's awful
because they may seem nerdy and boring.  How is this place still open? --M Heit
 

AUGUST 2005

The GLOBE
75 Fifth Street
Atlanta, GA 30308
(Located at the corner of Fifth and Spring)
404-541-1487
www.globeatlanta.com
Closed on Sunday 

If you haven’t visited the GLOBE yet, it’s high time you make a trip to Midtown for this urban-style bistro.  Located in the bustling business area of Technology Square, this gem offers good, fresh food in a relaxed atmosphere. 

First, do yourself a favor and spend some time at the 31-foot zinc bar sipping on a glass of wine and enjoying the convivial atmosphere. There are over 50 wines on the GLOBE’s list, with over 15 available by the glass.  If wine isn’t your thing, the restaurant also serves a large variety of cocktails and champagnes.

Once you are seated at one of the many tables at the restaurant, you’ll find the kitchen is as engaging as the decor.  Serving “practical food with a modern twist,” Chef Joshua Perkins will impress even the pickiest of patrons.  For a starter, we tried the seared tuna with Belgian endive salad ($7). The flaky fish was topped with a very refreshing mango-orange vinaigrette.  Next, we sampled the grilled Georgia peach with Serrano ham ($9).  Stuffed with Spanish blue cheese, this tasted like nothing I’d ever had before.

The entrée choice was a very hard one to make, but the seared Diver scallops with arugula ($19) won my vote in the end.  They were succulent little devils served with dried berries and balsamic-caramel sauce.  My companion opted for the coriander grilled duck breast and ravioli ($25), which is served alongside wilted spinach and a burgundy reduction. 

I decided I had to find room for a dessert I had spied at someone’s table earlier – the rum glazed pineapple upside-down cake ($5.50).  This perfect yellow cake was covered in fresh pineapple slices and topped with a large serving of rum.  Served alongside a large scoop of homemade vanilla ice cream.

As I was leaving the restaurant, I couldn’t help but take a peak at the breakfast menu I had heard others commenting about.  Fresh croissants, fresh-fruit danishes, Spanish tortillas, espresso smoothies.

Great service from a hospitable crew, a great menu selection and elaborate wine list make this a great place to visit anytime of the day or week.

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LOVE THE ATMOSPHERE.... 

SERVICE IS WONDERFUL ....... 

And the food DELICIOUS....... My favorite is the calamari appetizer or even the Hummus.   

If you love lamb...the lamb sandwich is fantastic! Great bang for the buck. 

--S Buchwald, Atlanta.

JULY 2005

Quinones at Bacchanalia
1198 Howell Mill Rd (between 14^th and Huff Road)
404-365-0410
www.starprovisions.com
Hours:  Dinner only.  Pick your time. 

If this place wasn’t so wonderful you’d be mad you went to all the trouble to get a reservation, figure out where it is located, understand the menu and pricing, and encourage a friend or two to join you.   It’s worth it, my friends.  I’d add a few more hassles to the list and still want to go back.

So, let’s don’t focus on the negative.  The place is underneath Bacchanalia and you’ve never been there before.  The menu is a 9-course tasting (with a couple of choices built in and a couple of “extras” sent out).  The menu is $95 per person and $165 if you choose the wine pairings, which I recommend.

The restaurant has 36 seats so when you make a reservation (be sure the phone answerer understands which restaurant you want to go to) you pick the time you want to dine and the table is yours for the night.  Good thing since you’ll be there about 3 hours.  The menu changes nightly but this past weekend I enjoyed such delicacies as slow poached quail egg in tomato consommé, Maine diver scallop crudo with lemon cucumber and ginger and a taste of my friend’s foie gras terrine with squab, summer truffles and local leeks.  And those are just for starters.

Our main course of roasted rack of lamb with roasted fairy tail eggplant was out of this world tender and delicious.  Paired with a Domaine Charvin, Chateaneuf-du-Pape 2002, Rhone Valley, it was heaven.  The Savannah Tupelo honeycomb that was served with the taleggio with toasted hazelnuts was a perfect start to the end.  Yes, that was not dessert.

Wedged between the poached plum with basil gelato and the final course of a warm Madeleine, the Spanish artisanal chocolate tart with chocolate mint ice milk was paired with Gutierrez de la Vega, Casta Diva ‘Moscatel Romano” 2003, Alicante-Marina Alta.  These people know how to pair wine and food.

The room is pretty, if a bit stuffy.  The service is outstanding and not a bit stuffy.  Yes, it’s hard to get in.  Yes, you can’t visualize where it’s located.  Yes, it’s expensive.  Just go.  Trust me.

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JUNE 2005

Shout
1197 Peachtree Road at 14th St. (Colony Square)

Atlanta, GA 30361
404-846-2000
www.heretoserverestaurants.com.
 

I gathered up some friends recently and headed down Peachtree to Shout, one of the newest restaurants in Midtown and the latest from Here to Serve (owners of Twist, Goldfish, Prime, Peri-peri, Noche).  Judging from the crowds that have already descended upon this new spot, we made a popular choice! 

During our 20-minute wait for a table (not too bad since there was plenty of eye candy to keep us entertained), we roamed the crowd of young singles hovering around the downstairs bar and soaking in the sexy glow of colorful lights.  Upstairs, we found a deck overlooking a beautiful Midtown skyline.  There’s a second bar up there - a definite plus in my book.  More importantly, the bartenders really know their stuff.   

Once seated, we were greeted by a knowledgeable server who filled us in on the lengthy menu highlighted by sushi, tapas and pizza.  He took pity on our slightly dazed looks and gave us a rundown of the more popular selections, which prompted us to begin our meal with fried calamari  served with pancetta and warm tomato fondue ($6).  The serving size was pretty small, but a few of these plates would be a festive start to a group meal.    

Anxious to see if the quality of the entrees would suffer in favor of “the scene” at Shout, my group’s orders consisted of pizzas and the roasted chicken with mash ($11), half of a chicken cooked rotisserie-style.  It must have been good, because we couldn’t get a word out of our friend for the next 15 minutes!  The “build your own” pizza option ($8 plus $1 for each added ingredient) was excellent.  All of the pizzas are made with a thin crust, topped with Italian tomato sauce and mozzarella, and then cooked in the restaurant’s large wood-burning oven.  From a list of 20 ingredients, I added goat cheese and ham, and my friend was equally pleased with her selection of Italian sausage, pepperoni and mushrooms. 

Apparently, the rest of Atlanta showed up as we were leaving.  We thought about going back to the bar after dinner, but the crowd was a bit overwhelming, and the restaurant was too loud at that point in the night to hear your neighbor without screaming in his ear.

Overall, Shout’s slogan of “Food, Fun, Flirt” really fits the bill.  The food is as good as it needs to be, the atmosphere and drinks are fun, and everywhere you look, singles are flirting.  Be sure to keep your eye on this Midtown hotspot.

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May 2005

The Oceanaire Seafood Room
1100 Peachtree Street NW (Near Colony Square)
Atlanta, GA  30309
404-475-2277
www.theoceanaire.com 

Oysters are a big part of the draw for this Atlanta newcomer – a chain with locations in six other cities including San Diego and Washington, D.C.  The website boasts an ever-changing oyster bar selection, ranging from Maine to New Zealand.  An oyster-less experience is not the thing to do at Oceanaire. 

But okay, woman cannot live on oysters alone.  We also had the clams casino appetizer ($9.95), salmon from the “simply grilled or broiled” section ($19.95), “black and bleu” mahi mahi ($25.95) and a baked sweet potato for two ($5.95).  Everything lived up to the restaurant’s “ultra-fresh” claim that the seafood they are serving was in the water just a day ago.  Oceanaire changes its menu daily, noting the catches available at the top, then working them into the various sections of the menu.  The preparations are simple, like my grilled salmon with sea salt, virgin olive oil and lemon.  The fish was prepared medium and came out not too dry or flaky.  It was also something I could have easily made at home just as well.  My dining companion rhapsodized over the clams casino, anointing them the best he’s ever had.  His mahi mahi was not up to that kind of praise, but he did clean his plate.   

So you would expect me to say I’ll be back, right?  Well…maybe if I’m craving seafood and my next trip to a coast is too far away.  Let me explain a couple of reasons why I would not rush back to Oceanaire, although I would heartily recommend it to someone searching for a nice seafood restaurant in Atlanta.  One, the space is lovely but lacks a welcoming energy.  Reminiscent of a luxury ocean liner, the design is dark woods, cozy booths, 1930s-style light fixtures and some funky blue accent lighting thrown in for good measure.  The drawback lies in the spread-out configuration of tables.  We were seated in Siberia amongst several empty tables, leading us to believe business was slow.  One turn around the slightly curved corner revealed another dining area with a much livelier ambiance that unfortunately did not carry over.  A small patio also hid several full tables.    

Two, it comes down to the prices that will prevent me from making continued trips to Oceanaire.  I would have loved to try the surf and turf, but my wallet shuddered at the $79.95 price tag for a 2 lb. lobster and a 10 oz. filet mignon.  And while our entrée prices were reasonable enough, I’ve never been a fan of restaurants that only offer side items a la carte.  Call me cheap, but I don’t want to pay $12 more for green beans and potatoes (although the sweet potato really was delicious!).   

Service was very friendly but veered wildly from formal to folksy.  The wine list was adequate and offered several options by the glass.  A pretty standard dessert list (save for the baked Alaska) includes crème brulee, key lime pie, sorbet, etc.  If happy hours are your thing, weekdays from 3-6 p.m. feature half-priced oysters and shrimp cocktails.   

With so many restaurants to choose from in Atlanta, there are many one-timers in my past – places I enjoyed but probably won’t make it back to in favor of trying another new place.  The mainstays I enjoy again and again tend to have that magical combination of traits that Oceanaire lacked: an inviting, energized atmosphere and a menu full of reasonably priced dishes that never disappoint.  But if I want oysters, I know where I’m going.      

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APRIL 2005

Canoe
4199 Paces Ferry Road, NW
Atlanta, GA 30339
770-432-2663
www.canoeatl.com           

I have to come clean: this was my first visit to Canoe, a 10-year-old Atlanta dining institution.  Now I just have to find a way to live with the fact that, all this time, I’ve been missing out on what may be my new favorite restaurant. 

Set on the banks of the Chattahoochee River in Vinings, the restaurant itself is beautiful.  Don’t let the strip mall parking lot fool you; once inside, you’ll think you’ve escaped into a cabin in the woods.  The hostess who took our coats called us by name, making us feel as though we had been dining there for years.  In fact, I heard more than one person say “see you next week” on the way out, giving the restaurant a neighborhood feel that sets the tone for the whole night.   

We sat in a raised booth facing the floor-to-ceiling windows that overlook the river.  Even at night, it is a breathtaking setting.  The interiors are done in wood and exposed brick, with an open kitchen that allows guests to watch Executive Chef Carvel Gould and her staff work their magic.   

Much of the evening’s enjoyment should be credited to our waitress Christy, who perfectly blends her knowledge and professionalism with incredible friendliness.  All of Canoe’s staff, dressed in jeans, seems to have mastered the art of great service without being stuffy.  She recommended a terrific bottle of Larrikin Shiraz ($49) from the extensive wine list, and by the end of the evening we were swapping secrets on where to go for the best deals on champagne. 

My date started the meal with a creamy wild mushroom soup topped with toasted brioche croutons ($8.50), which he declared delicious.  I opted for a walk on the wild side and tried the grilled ostrich loin ($12.95).  Deliciously rare and sliced thin, it’s served over an Asian pear salad and cilantro with a tangy apple cider vinaigrette.  Definitely not something you see on every menu!   

For our main course, we each tried one of Chef Gould’s specials.  My date had a perfectly cooked ribeye steak with roasted fingerling potatoes and beets that paired deliciously with our wine.  I had planned on getting the sage roasted pheasant, said to be one of Canoe’s signature dishes, but on Christy’s urging I instead had the fish special: almond-crusted cod served over asparagus and parmesan risotto.  It was delicate and flaky, and the risotto was creamy but not too heavy – a terrific combination.   

Needless to say, we cleaned our plates and headed right into dessert.  We tried four different dishes from Pastry Chef Robyn Mayo’s menu: roasted banana cheesecake with caramelized bananas and almond sorbet; toasted hazelnut crème brulee; toasted coconut pound cake with pineapple chutney and lemongrass sherbet; and the night’s dessert special, a liquid center chocolate cake served with passion fruit sorbet (all desserts are $5 to $7).  All four were exquisite, but my highest honor goes to the crème brûlée, which was the best I have ever had.   

After such a wonderful first experience, I can’t wait to go back to Canoe.  It will probably be soon – after all, I have a lot of years to make up for. 

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MARCH 2005 -

SAN FRANCISCO - a foodie paradise. The following is a brief review of TICKET editor Chris McGinnis' restaurant picks in his favorite destination:

IMPRESS A CLIENT. If money is no object, and you want to eat at the very best restaurant in SF, go to Gary Danko—but make reservations now.  Closer to Union Square is the dining room at the Campton Place hotel—one of the most difficult tables to secure these days. I prefer to sit in the bar area and always order a hamburger, arguably the best on the West Coast!   Another really good upscale choice is frenchy Boulevard down by the Ferry Building at the Embarcadero.

FERRY BUILDING. Also at the Ferry Building is the new location of the Slanted Door, the well-known Vietnamese spot that was once located in the Mission. The Ferry Building is now my fave place to visit in SF—a huge organic food market on Saturday mornings, and a big foodie mall during the week. A must see.  

A STANDBY. A great standby is always Postrio. It has been there off Union Square for about 10 years and I have been several times and it is always fab, albeit pricey.   

WHERE NEIGHBORS MEET. I also like the Hayes Street Grill—a good neighborhood place with great food and service. Oh, yeah, and another place I REALLY liked last time I was in SF on a cool foggy night was the warm and cozy Garibaldi's—they have the best lamb loin I have ever eaten.  

COMIDA MEXICANA. If you are knocking around and want a GREAT casual burrito or fast Mexican food, go to Pancho Villa in the Mission. Que bueno!  

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"You need to try my favorite restaurant in San Francisco, Trattoria Contadina in North Beach. It serves an italian eclectic mix of traditional pastas, grilled meats, poultry, and seafood. Awesome." - B. Dean, SF
 

FEBRUARY 2005

Smokejack
29 South Main Street
Alpharetta, GA 30004
770-410-7611
www.smokejackbbq.com
Hours: Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 4 p.m. to 9 p.m.

Judging by the large number of families filing into Smokejack for dinner, the restaurant, although a new kid on the block, seems to have already reached the status of a neighborhood favorite.  Located in downtown Alpharetta, Smokejack has a knack for making guests feel comfortable and encourages patrons to bring the kids along for some upscale barbeque.   

Inside, the restaurant is cozy and inviting with exposed brick walls and dim lighting.  Housed in a historic building, Smokejack has struck a balance between charming and comfortable.  The spacious bar area is a spot to gather with friends and enjoy the local beers on tap – think Cheers: after a couple visits, everybody would know your name!  I’ve been told the restaurant also has an upstairs blues bar that will soon open for live entertainment and private parties.   

Instantaneously greeted by a friendly server and a basket of warm cornbread and biscuits, my friend and I felt right at home and ready to indulge.  For starters, the fried pickles ($5) are a must!  Large dill slices coated in crispy batter come with a mayo sauce for dipping and are heavenly.  They’ve already become the restaurant’s signature item.  We also tried the smoked pork quesadilla with roasted chilis, pepperjack cheese, black beans and charred tomatoes ($6.50).  It’s not your average greasy, bland quesadilla – it arrived piping hot and full of flavor.

Smokejack isn’t your typical barbeque joint.  Executive Chef Jay Swift’s menu offers wood-grilled fish and duckling, in addition to the more traditional dishes from the pit.  I ordered the rainbow trout ($15.50) with pecan brown butter for a taste of the wood grill.  The two pieces of flaky fish are served atop sweet corn pudding.  My friend opted for barbeque and ordered the low and slow pork shoulder ($10.95) sliced and served with two Carolina-style mustard sauces.  All items from the pit come with two sides, which, trust me, is a difficult decision – you’ll want to try them all!  The cheese grits and cole slaw both proved to be outstanding choices.  If you become a regular at Smokejack, you’ll quickly learn the daily features offered on the menu.  According to owner Dave Filipowicz, Monday night already has a following of patrons who come just for their weekly dose of buttermilk skillet fried chicken. 

For dessert, the sweet potato pecan pie topped with homemade marshmallows ($5.50) put the finishing touches on a fabulous (and hearty!) meal.  If you’re dining with a group, the chocolate fudge brownie supreme sundae ($5) is perfect for sharing – two large, warm brownies topped with caramel and chocolate sauces, whipped cream and ice cream is enough to accommodate four spoons!  Got kids?  Be sure to check out the selection of milk shakes and Boylan sodas.  

Be prepared to leave Smokejack uncomfortably full!  It just wouldn’t seem right not to clear your plate, nor will you be able to resist doing so.  If for some reason you’re not stuffed, your doggy bag will be – with smokin’ leftovers to enjoy the next day! 

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Hi, I wanted to respond to your review of SmokeJack BBQ in Alpharetta. I visited this weekend and had horrible service. We had reservations, arrived about 15 minutes early ,and they seated at least 50 people ahead of us. Included similar sized parties without reservations. When we spoke to the owner, he became defensive and angry. The brunch wasn't as advertised over the phone--no lamb, no smoked chicken--mainly eggs and cold cobbler, and the only barbeque offered was ribs. Highly disappointing for $20/person. Thanks, --S. Clayton

NOTE: Jan 2006: The owners of Smokejack have contacted THE TICKET assuring us that times have changed drastically since this incident. If you've been there lately and had a good experience, please let us know!

JANUARY 2005

Joe’s On Sullivan
2144 Sullivan Road
Atlanta, GA 30337
Phone: 404-844-5000
www.joesonsullivan.com  

Hours: Monday through Saturday: 11 a.m. to 2 a.m.Sunday: 11 a.m. to midnight   

If you want a delicious burger, go to Joe’s.  That used to be my main opinion about Midtown favorite Joe’s On Juniper.  It’s a great place to go with friends and grab a beer, onion rings and a cheeseburger.  Metrotainment Cafes, the parent company behind Joe’s, Einstein’s and Garrison’s, to name a few, recently ventured to College Park to open up a second location of Joe’s and, in the process, have improved on an original that was pretty darn great to begin with. 

When we walked into Joe’s On Sullivan, the first thing I noticed were the impressive flat-screen televisions positioned throughout the restaurant.  They are really nice and give Joe’s a very updated, sleek look.  A large bar, home to 30 beers on draft from around the world, beckons from the center of the restaurant and is surrounded by cozy booths, but we opted for the L-shaped dining room that lines the perimeter.  Every seat in the house appears to offer a good view of a nearby TV, which I’m sure comes in very handy on sports-heavy nights. 

We started with the spinach dip ($5.95) – a must for me.  This dip was even creamier and more delicious than I remember from some of my other Metrotainment experiences, and the tortilla chips tasted extra fresh as well.  While my friend opted for the mushroom and cheese burger ($7.50), accompanied by some sweet potato fries that are enough to make you forget about the regular ones forever, I branched out and ordered the fried jumbo shrimp basket ($10.95).  Honestly, I wasn’t expecting much more than a Red Lobster experience, but boy, was I wrong.  These shrimp tasted just-caught fresh and were lightly breaded and fried to crispy, but not overdone, perfection. 

We tried to resist dessert, but since Atlanta pastry icon Barb Pires provides all the desserts for Metrotainment restaurants, we would have been fools to skip it.  Our sweet treat of choice was the strawberry cake ($5.95) – yellow cake filled with strawberry cream and topped with fresh strawberries.  It sounded just decadent enough to qualify as sinful, but it was surprisingly light and refreshing after my fried entrée. 

Other menu highlights that looked good for next time are the peach BBQ ribs, fried tilapia sandwich, original Anchor Bar jumbo buffalo wings (the “flaming” sauce is available at your own risk) and the kinda Cobb…kinda Fulton grilled chicken breast salad, just because I like the name.  Munchies (appetizers) range in price from $2.95 to $8.95; sandwiches/burgers are $5.95-7.95; entrees run $7.95-$16.95. 

The service was friendly and maybe a tad too anxious to please.  Joe’s had only been open about a month when we visited, and the waitstaff was still a little green.  But they were earnest, and immensely likeable, which really sums up Joe’s On Sullivan too.

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DECEMBER

Rainwater
11655 Haynes Bridge Road
Alpharetta, GA 30004
770-777-0033
www.rainwaterrestaurant.com.
Hours:  Monday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Last weekend I wanted to go out for a nice dinner, something different from the Intown norm.  A co-worker suggested Rainwater.  I was a little hesitant when I heard it was in Alpharetta but decided to grab my companion and make a break for the ‘burbs! 

As we turned into the parking lot, I quickly double-checked my MapQuest directions to make sure I was in the right place – was this enormous building that resembled a vineyard estate a restaurant? To my surprise and excitement, it was!

Upon entering this “castle” of a restaurant, I immediately noticed the rainwater décor throughout the restaurant (how fitting!) -- a large cobalt-hued raindrop chandelier suspended from a blue dome in the reception area and more of the blue hand-blown raindrops on the walls.  A gracious host promptly greeted us and led us to our table.

A server quickly approached our table to ask for our drink order and handed us the wine list.  The wine list was more like a wine book and after several minutes of my “deer in headlights” stare at the selections, I decided to ask for a recommendation.  Our server quickly suggested their Friday night promotion, the “Bottomless Glass of Wine”. You pay one price (from $12 to $27 based on the price level you choose, with no limit to how much wine you order) and get a selection of up to 40 different wines.  What a deal – and on a Friday night?  We were sold!

So on to the food -- we chose the George’s Bank seared scallops for our appetizer.  Served with house-made linguine and topped with a lemon cream sauce ($13), these delectable little delicacies were hands down the best scallops I’ve ever had.  For my entrée, I chose the dusted and seared yellow tail sole served alongside a very hearty shrimp and cashew stuffing ($21). My companion chose the grilled pork chop with blue cheese macaroni, roasted asparagus and apple cider butter sauce ($22).  Both meals were to-die-for, and our server even made recommendations from our “bottomless wine list” to accompany our food selections.

Impressed by everything I had seen and tasted so far, I had to find room for a dessert I spied at someone’s table earlier -- the raspberry staircase.  The crisp cookie shaped as a skyscraper (and almost as tall) encased several layers of rich dark chocolate and white chocolate mousse.  This was the perfect ending to our meal.

Excellent service by a hospitable crew, a fabulous menu selection and sophisticated wine list make this restaurant well worth the 10 to 15 minute drive out to the suburbs! 

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NOVEMBER 2004

Dantanna’s
3400 Around Lenox Dr. (next to the Westin, previously the Swissotel)
Atlanta, GA  30326
404-760-8873
www.dantannas.com  
Open 11 a.m. – 2:30 a.m. every day 

I always thought Dantanna’s was a sports bar.  They have a big TV in the bar.  Lots of the guys I know wouldn’t go anywhere else to watch a game.  So, I just figured it wasn’t for me.  Turns out those guys have been keeping a secret all to themselves!! Yes, you can have a blast watching a game or a favorite show, but you can also have a delicious meal prepared by a chef who graduated from the Culinary Institute of America and is co-owner of the place. 

And I’ll be honest.  I never really knew where it was, either.  Turns out, it couldn’t be more convenient.  It’s in the much-less-chaotic shopping center next door to Lenox.  It used to be Monty’s and before that was a Bennigan’s.  Parking’s easy and free if you choose to self-park.   Inside – another surprise.  No sticky floors.  No cigarette butts all around.  This place is nice!  It’s a really pretty restaurant with lots of wood and fabrics that make it very cozy.   

Chef Tim Williams puts out delicious steaks and chops, but I had the Zinfandel Short Ribs with blackberry BBQ sauce and blue cheese mashed potatoes ($19), which was excellent.  I started off with portabella mushroom quesadilla ($9) and ended with the brownie cheesecake ($6).  They fly their fish in daily, so next time that’s what I’ll get.  There was a game on in the spacious bar so it was really busy, but I never felt like I was in the midst of some event to which I was not invited.  Somehow they have worked it out so that food fans and sports fans can both be happy.   

I would be remiss if I did not mention the cocktails here.  They are creative and potent, and I very much enjoyed the Pineapple Twist.  Okay, so I enjoyed two.  The wine list is excellent also.  I saw couples having a romantic dinner, business people from nearby offices (and probably hotels) eating steaks, and then all those sports fans.  But get this, those fans are drinking fine wine and eating lobster!  This is clearly not a beer and wings type of place.  Maybe that explains why they love it so much … and why they haven’t told the rest of us! 

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We went based on this recommendation and were shocked at the acrid smoke that permeates not only the bar area, but the restaurant area. Sticky, sick and sour cigar smoke at that. We left before they even served water, and the friendly waitress apologized profusely. Sorry. They need to get some sort of air filtration system. -J McCradle.